The Dimity Bustle

Thanks to this most inspiring book, which has arrived in my life.

“Fashions of the Gilded Age” by Frances Grimble.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fashions-Gilded-Age-Volume-Undergarments/dp/0963651757

   “The Dimity Bustle” 

Bustle1

“Drafting”

The drafting for this book uses a special scale system, which I admit took a while to get my head around, but for this particular pattern its at a 1/4 scale. So using Abobe Illustrator I drafted this out by measuring the book and then x4, I printed out onto A3 and joined together. This would be easily drafted by hand by drawing the downward measurement at 1st: book=189mm x 4=759mm. Parallel at the top 2nd: Waist book=31.5mm x 4=126mm. Then parallel at the bottom 3rd: bottom Hem book= 67mm x 4=268mm. So by joining up these the slopping back angel is achieved. Measure down for the bone channels and mark horizontally. Then you just apply this technique to the side panel.

Bustle3

Looking closely at the drawing, inside there is another 2 panels with ties and buckles, these must help keep the shape of the bustle, laying onto your behind, helping with the elevation. With this in mind I decided to cut x4 of the Side Gore panels to make these Inside Gore panels.

Bustle2

The pattern in the book does not include the Frill or the Waist-band. My back waist corseted measurement is 380mm so take this add on 100mm (50mm each side) and then 30mm deep x2. The frill, I took the Back bottom hem measurement x3 then added 30mm to each section so to achieve a good ruffle, this will need a small band for the buttons, to attach to the Bustle. I decided to keep this Frill plain and not add Lace, I am thinking Pleats.

Now to the choice of fabric… I was very tempted to go down the route of some of the glorious examples I had found,  brightly coloured or striped but the beauty of this choice of bustle, it has the removable frill which I can at a later date can change, make the same fabric to match the dress.

Bustle3 Bustle2 Bustle1

http://pinterest.com/pin/98516310569018660/

I already have some good sturdy crisp cotton but its very pure white and feel that the excuse is there to try Tea Dying, I really want a natural antique colour, just off white. Also its always good to use up fabric which you have already, AND I have already put this through a quick wash in the washing machine which saves me another job.

Materials which I need are:

  • 1.5m Cotton – Bustle
  • Boning channel = 2.1m
  • Plastic Whale bone = 2.1m
  • Tipping fluid
  • Grosgrain ribbon
  • D Rings = x12
  • Cotton Tread (natural cotton)
  • Buttons for the detachable frill x5

“Suppliers”

I have a couple of websites I use for supplies,
also a couple of shops here in London Town.

Vena Cava Design
Great website for Corset and Lingerie supplies but also a fantastic source for Historical Costume Patterns.
I love this website and I have to be very careful when shopping here, far too tempting. Great service and delivery.
http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php

Sewing Chest
UK Mailorder of Sewing Supplies for Bra & Corset Making, Period Costume, Dance Leotards and general sewing.
I have been using this Company for a long time and they have never let me down.
http://www.bramaker.co.uk/catalog/

Cloth House
I love the Fabric from these two branches of this wonderful shop. The range and quality is absolutely fantastic.
The cotton fabric I used for this project was purchased from the No.47 shop and the buttons from the No.98.
http://www.clothhouse.com/home.php

MacCulloch & Wallis
A trusted and extremely amazing place for such a wide range of things, its so worth a very good look.
This is where a I found the D Rings.
http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/

“Tea Dying”

There were plenty of good clear instructions to be found on-line, all which varied from the amount of water to tea bag ratio. One thing I did pick up was to use budget tea bags (my better half would not be happy if I used the good tea bags, I can imagine the look on his face), so this also ends up being very cheap.

The tea bag to water ratio obviously depends on the colour you want to achieve. I did some tests is a smaller saucepan with some swatches of my fabric. If colour is too dark, add in some more water one cup at a time, and reheat. If the colour too light, increase the amount of tea bags to water ratio. I started with 1x bag : 3x cups, then added more water, 1x bag : 4 cups. As i only want a very subtle colour, I kept going and ended up with 1x bag : 16x cups = 4 Litres. This volume will be made bigger once I get dying.

Tea_Dye_Shades

  1. Put your material into a large pot and fill with warm water, enough that the material is submerged.
  2. Soak the material in the pot for a few minutes, then remove from the water and set aside.
  3. Measure the water as to your tea bag to water ratio and bring to the boil on the stove, then turn off the heat.
  4. Steep black tea bags in the hot water for about 15 minutes. I used ‘1x’ tea bags to ’16x’ cups of water, my tried and tested formula.
  5. Remove the tea bags and stir your dye with a wooden spoon to make sure the water in the pot is a consistent colour. I would double check and test the colour & darkness of your tea dye again, with a small piece of your material (pre-soaked) and immerse it in the dye for about 10 minutes. Remove the test piece, dry off and then iron it so that it’s completely dry and you can see its true colour, as it will look darker when wet.
  6. If the dye makes the fabric your desired colour, place the soaked material back in the pot. Make sure that the fabric is immersed, and allow it to dye for about 10 Mins (stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, for a more consistent colour and to prevent the tea from settling in the folds of the fabric). Also from my experience with any sort of dying its better to dye each part on a small scale rather then trying to fit the meters of fabric in a pot. Yes I have a big pot but you can gently fold the fabric in rather the squashing it and so to avoid getting patchy, uneven cover and crease marks. I also discovered that the water should be put through a water filter. As a cup of tea the hard water film on the top collects a stronger colour which as you pull the fabric out makes a stronger patch.
  7. Rinse out the fabric with cold water.
  8. Put on a spin cycle in the washing machine.
  9. Iron all pieces to dry, believe me its so much easier to iron when damp.

The tea dying took most evenings of my week as i am also making a Victorian Chemise using a Simplicity pattern#9769, and a set of open drawers using Simplicity pattern#2890, which I want the same colour, but hey all good practice.

What I also found, was to put the water through a drinking water filter. The same happened as when you make a cup of tea, you get a residue which floats on the surface. This then, when you pull the fabric out, makes darker patches, which you don’t want.

“Construction”

The instructions in the book are very good, but I thought all the help I can get is always invaluable. I have a couple of fail safe resources which I trust two which I look at daily and another which I knew had a bustle on-line lesson.

“Daily visited”
http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/
http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/

Both of these websites have the most wonderful wealth of information that I know of.

Your Wardrobe Unlock’d and Foundations Revealed ran by Cathy Hay.
Please, please have a look, the resource at your fingertips is AMAZING and
worth every penny!!!!
“and then not forgetting…..”

A self paced, subscribed lesson, again there are things which other people can teach you which you can never teach your self…

       “I believe there is no one way of doing all things, and sometimes another way could be better suited to you, there is always more to learn”

With the use of all of the direction above…… I compiled these instructions:

  1. Join together Back Panels with a French seam, Press.
  2. Sew on Boning Tape Channels.
    Make sure not to sew to the edge on one side, within seam allowance for the boning insertion. Back stitch and reinforce.
  3. Hem edges: Top, Long edge and bottom on Inside Gore panels (I used my roll hemming foot.. am in love)
  4. Hem edges: Long Edge of Side Gore Panels.
  5. Join together and french seam Outside & Inside Gores to Back (french seam), making sure to keep the boning channel open at one end.
  6. Hem bottom edge.
  7. Gather top into waist band.
  8. Finish Waist band and add ties set of D rings.
  9. Add internal ties with D rings.
  10. Make up detachable frill with pleats and button loops (my preference), then add buttons to Bustle.“Note to Self” To make life easier next time…. http://www.beaufrog.co.uk/dressmaking/make-a-pleating-board/487

IMG_2054

A couple of pictures to help the above….

BustleConstuction3 BustleConstuction2 Bustle_Construction1

Ta-daaaah!!! This bustle has turned out rather on the petite side but I am extremely happy with the finished result and I feel is very close to the illustration. It would be very easy to make the shape more extreme using the same techniques. The Chemise (Simplicity Pattern#9769) has turned out extremely full, involves a lot of volume of fabric, so being rather small build and frame it feels rather on the large size. It very flattering around the shoulders. The Drawers (Simplicity Pattern#2890) definitely are a winner.

Most of all…. Yippee!!! Victorian Underwear is complete!!!!! 😀

Finished_Bustle3

Finished_Bustle2 Finished_Bustle1

Advertisements

200 thoughts on “The Dimity Bustle

  1. Thank you for the auspicious writeup. It in fact was a amusement
    account it. Look advanced to far added agreeable from you!
    However, hoow can we communicate?

  2. You really make it appear really easy together with your presentation however I find this topic to be actually one thing that I think I’d by no means understand.
    It sort of feels too complex and extremely large for me. I am looking ahead for your subsequent put up, I will attempt to get the hang of it!

  3. You really make it seem really easy with your presentation but I
    find this topic to be really something which I think I’d never understand.
    It sort of feels too complex and extremely extensive for me.
    I’m having a look ahead on your next post, I will try to get the dangle of it!

  4. Heya i am for the primary tijme here. I found this board and I find It truly useful & it helped me out a lot.
    I am hoping too odfer something again and help others such
    as yoou helped me.

  5. Hey I am so grateful I found your weblog, I
    really found you by accident, while I was searching on Google foor
    something else, Anyways I am here now and would juhst liike to say many thanks for
    a remarkable post and a all round enjoyable blog (I also love the theme/design),
    I don’t have time to browse it all at the minute but I hae book-marked
    it and also added in your RSS feeds, sso when I
    have time I ill be back to read a llot more, Please
    do keep up the excellent work.

  6. Hey! This post couldn’t be written any better! Reding this post reminds mee of my previous room
    mate! He always kept talking abouut this. I will forward this write-up to him.
    Fairly certain he will have a good read. Thanks for sharing!

  7. Excellent post. I was checking constantly this blog and I’m impressed!

    Extreemely helpful information specifically the last part
    🙂 I care for such info much. I was seeking this certain information for a very long time.
    Thank you and best of luck.

  8. It is actually a nice and useeful piece of information. I am satisfied that you shared this useful info
    with us. Please keep us up to date like this. Thanks forr sharing.

  9. I bblog quitte often and I genuiunely thank you
    for your content. Your article has really peaked my interest.
    I’m going tto boopkmark your site and keep checking
    for new details about once per week. I pted in for your Feed as well.

  10. Having read this I thought it wwas rather informative.
    I appreciate you taking the time andd effprt to put this short article together.

    I once again find myself personally spending way too much time both
    reading and commenting. But so what, it was still
    worthwhile!

  11. This is very interesting, You are a very skillesd blogger.
    I have joined your feed and look foprward to seeking more of your magniificent post.
    Also, I’ve shared your site in my social networks!

  12. Good day! I know this is kinda off topic however I’d figured I’d ask.
    Would you be interested in exchanging links or maybe guest authoring a blog post or vice-versa?
    My website discusses a lot oof thee same topics ass yours and Ifeel we could greatly benefit from each other.
    If you’re interested feel free to send me ann e-mail.
    I look forward to hearing ffrom you! Superb blog by the way!

  13. Hi there, I discovered your site by the use of Google whilst looking for a comparable subject,
    your web site came up, it seems good. I have bookmarked it in my google bookmarks.

    Hi there, simply turned into aware of your weblog through
    Google, and located that it’s really informative.
    I am going to be careful for brussels. I’ll appreciate when you continue this in future.
    Many folks shall be benefited out of your writing. Cheers!

  14. Hmm it looks like youur wensite ate my first comment (it was super long) so I guess I’ll jus sum
    iit upp what I submitted and say, I’m thoroughly enjoying yor blog.
    I as well am an aspiring bloog writer but I’m still new to everything.
    Do you have any suggestions for rookie blog writers?
    I’dcertainly appreciate it.

    • Hey so sorry for the late reply!!! I only really started this as a record of what I was making but afteer a year or so it started to get some really great feedback. Speak from the heart about something your are passionate about and of course enjoy and I am sure that you will shine.

  15. Thank you ffor another excellent post. Where else may just
    anybody get that kind off information in such a perfect manner of writing?
    I have a presentation next week, and I am at the look
    for such information.

  16. Excellent beat ! I wish to apprentice at the same time as
    you amend your weeb site, how can i subscribe for a weblog website?

    The accounmt aided mee a applicable deal. I have been a
    little bit acquainted of this your broadcast offered bright clear idea

  17. Wow that was unusual. I jusst wrotte an incredibly long comment but after
    I clicked submit my comment didn’t appear. Grrrr… well I’m not writing all that over again.
    Anyway, just wanterd to say excelllent blog!

  18. Hello to every body, it’s my first pay a quick visit of this webpage;
    this website incoudes amazing andd genuinely good material designed for visitors.

  19. Its like you read my mind! You seem to know a lot about this,
    like you wrote the book in iit or something. I think that you could do with some pics to drive the message home a bit, but otther than that, this is great
    blog. A fantastic read. I will certainly bee back.

  20. You really make it seem so easy with your presentation but I find this topic to be really something that I think I would never understand.

    It seems too complicated and very broad for me.I’m looking forward for your next post, I will ttry to
    get the hang off it!

  21. I really like your blog.. very nice colors & theme.
    Did you design thjis website yourself or did you hire someone too do it
    for you? Plz respond as I’m looking too design my own blog aand would
    lioke to find out where u got this from. thanks

    • Thank you very much… I started with a free template within WordPress and with a bit of trial and error updated it. I re-designed the background and added it and that was it. Hope this is useful to you. 😀

  22. Great work! That is the kind of info that should be shared
    across the net. Shame onn Google for now
    not positioning this puut up upper! Come on over and seek advice from my web site .
    Thank you =)

Leave a Reply

Please log in using one of these methods to post your comment:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s